The allure of a Rolex is undeniable, a blend of precision engineering, iconic design, and enduring prestige. This allure is often amplified by the addition of diamonds, transforming a classic timepiece into a breathtaking piece of jewelry. However, the world of diamond-set Rolexes is far from monolithic. The quality, craftsmanship, and ultimately, the value, are significantly impacted by whether the diamonds are factory-set or custom-set. This article explores the nuances of afterset diamonds on Rolex watches, focusing on the differences between factory settings and aftermarket modifications, with specific examples like the Rolex 69173 TT Datejust, the Rolex 118238 YG DD White Roman, and the Rolex 16613 Two-Tone "Bluesey," while also examining the process and considerations involved in choosing between factory and custom diamond bezels.
Understanding "Afterset" Diamonds:
The term "afterset" diamonds refers to diamonds that are added to a Rolex watch *after* its initial manufacture. This is distinct from factory-set diamonds, where the diamonds are integrated during the watch's assembly process at the Rolex factory in Geneva. Afterset diamonds can be applied by authorized Rolex dealers, independent watchmakers, or even less reputable sources. This distinction is crucial because it directly affects the watch's authenticity, warranty, and resale value.
Rolex Factory-Set Diamonds: The Gold Standard
Rolex's factory-set diamonds adhere to the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship. The selection process is rigorous, ensuring only top-grade diamonds with exceptional clarity, cut, and color (often D-F color and VS-VVS clarity) are used. The setting itself is meticulously executed by highly skilled artisans using specialized tools and techniques. The diamonds are securely held in place, minimizing the risk of loss or damage. Moreover, the factory setting is flawlessly integrated into the watch's design, maintaining the watch's original aesthetic integrity. A factory-set diamond Rolex will typically have its diamond setting explicitly noted in its documentation and the watch's serial number will be consistent with the date of production.
Specific Examples of Factory-Set Rolex Models:
Let's examine some specific models mentioned, highlighting their factory-set diamond features:
* Rolex 69173 TT Datejust Factory Red Vignette Diamond: The "TT" designation indicates a two-tone design, typically combining yellow gold and stainless steel. The "red vignette" likely refers to a specific dial configuration with red accents. The "factory" designation indicates that the diamonds, likely on the bezel, were set at the Rolex factory. This ensures a flawless integration of the diamonds and maintains the watch's value.
* Rolex 118238 YG DD White Roman: This model, a Day-Date in 18k yellow gold ("YG"), showcases a white Roman numeral dial. The factory-set diamonds would likely be found on the bezel and possibly the dial, depending on the specific variation. Again, factory setting guarantees the highest quality and craftsmanship, enhancing the watch's luxury and prestige.
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